The Best Backings

Are a minimum of 8” wider and 8” longer than the top - so we can mount and hold it on the frame properly and enough backing fabric is left at the bottom edge as we roll and quilt your quilt. Have selvedges removed - to prevent uneven tension in the backing which can result in tucks. Are squared - so the top and batting sit on a foundation that is not baggy. Are pressed- so wrinkles and folds are not quilted into the back. Do not have mixed grain lines. If backings are constructed with some of the pieces cross-grain and other pieces straight of grain, the backing will not have even tension, which can result in sags and possible tucks. Have seams that: are backstitched at the edges so they do not pull apart; are not close to the edges of the top when layered so application of binding becomes difficult; are sewn with a close stitch length of an appropriate color thread; and are pressed, preferably to one side, so they don’t show as ridges in the quilt top..

IF THE QUILTING IS GOING TO BE EDGE-TO-EDGE the best backing will be sewn with the selvedge edges running down the sides. Edge-to-edge quilting is directional. The top of the quilt must be mounted across the top of the frame. The backing must be mounted the same way. The most stable part of the fabric is the length-wise straight grain edge wich runs parallel to the selvedge. Backings constructed in this way are less likely to stretch. Stretching can cause the top to pucker during quilting.

IF THE QUILTING IS GOING TO BE CUSTOM the best backing considers the colors of the quilting threads. The bobbin thread must be the same color as the top thread. A busy, multi-color print (not a tone-on-tone that “reads” as a solid) that has similar light and dark values to the quilt top is the best choice because it minimizes any irregularities that occur during quilting. Look at the top. What is the lightest color fabric? What is the darkest? The best backing will be a print of those two colors.

IF THE QUILT WILL BE FOR SHOW COMPETION, OR IS A WALLHANGING the best backing will be made following our guidelines. If we run the grain line of the batting in the same direction of the grain line of the backing, the quilt will hang better.

LABELS If you like your label quilted into your quilt, compare the top of your quilt to the backing. Make sure the label is high enough up from the bottom edge, and far enough in from the side edges. See the mounting diagram to be sure your label is placed correctly. If the label isn’t pieced into the backing, be sure the edges are sewn down securely.

BORDERED BACKINGS If you are going to border your backing on all four sides, we cannot promise that the top will be centered perfectly horizontally. We mount the edge of the top one inch down from the edge of the backing. We are expecting the balance of the 7” to be at the bottom of the backing. Centering the top vertically is not as difficult, just be sure that the border seams on the sides of the backing are not close to where the side edges of the top are going to fall.

BACKINGS USING WIDE WIDTH FABRICS
If you are going to use wide width fabrics, measure your quilt top. Add a total of 8" to the width and 8" to the length of the measurements.
Example: the top is 90 x 108 + 8 = 98" x 116".
If the fabric needs to be washed, add 5% to the measurement. 98" x 116" + 5% = 103" x 122". The backing for a top that size needs to be at least 103" wide by 122" long.
If the width of the wide backing is not wide enough, the best place to piece it is down the center. It is important to keep the grainlines running in the same direction on the side panels and in the center pieced panel.

THE BEST LAYOUT FOR A PIECED BACKING using 44" wide fabric

#1: Measure the top and add 8” to the width and 8” to the length for the backing size.It may be possible to piece the backing from two widths of 44” wide fabric. If a wider backing is needed, the best place to piece it is in the center.

#2: Figure out the width of the strip that needs to run down the center. Remember, the best pieced backings will maintain the same grainlines.

#3: Determine how many strips of the needed width can be cut from 40” wide fabric.

#4: Determine how many strips need to be joined to make the piece the needed length.

#5: Prepare the backing using our general guidelines.

EXAMPLE: Calculations will be based on 40” wide usable fabric.

The top measures 90” x 108“.

Add 8” to the width and length. The back needs to be 98” x 116”.

Make two 40” wide x 116” long panels.

The width of the backing needs to be 98”.

98” - 40” and - 40”means the center strip needs to be 18” wide.

The length of the 18” wide strip must be 116”.

How many 18” strips are available in 40” wide fabric? 40” divided by 18” = 2 strips.

Divide the needed length of 116” by 2 to determine how long the 40” wide piece of fabric needs to be.

116” divide by 2 = 58”. Allow for seaming and use a 60” piece of fabric.

Divide the 40” x 60” piece of fabric down the center into two 20” x 60” pieces.

Join the 20” seam to make a 20” x 120” strip. Trim the length to 116”.

Join the panels to the center strip to make the backing 98” x 116”

To calculate yardage for the backing fabric purchase: add 116 + 116 + 60 and divide by 36. 292 divided by 36 equals 8.11. Purchase 8 ¼ yards.